I started surfing during the 60's. I remember learning at Killer Dana, Doheny, San Clemente, Newport and San Onofre. I've owned at least 20 different boards from Hobie to custom boards made by Bruce Grant and JoJo Popler to Tom Morey's experimental Swizzlestick but now I'm riding a Surftech board. I've surfed from Zihuatenejo, Mexico to Salmon Creek (near Jenner), Maui, Kaui, Oahu and Ireland. Here's some great links for surfing. Surfing is more a lifestyle than a "sport". In Mike Doyle's great book "Morning Glass" he tells what it means to be a waterman. Surfing is just part of being a waterman but it's the best part for me. There's no better view than that of the one looking back toward the beach from sitting on your board in the lineup. There's just an amazing feeling taking off on an overhead wave and feeling the power of the ocean pushing forward and that you have to do something to keep from getting crunched by the wave. That something is positioning yourself on the board and on the face of the wave so you can run to the nose or drop your knee for a cutback . . . . . trust me, it's a great feeling. Since I now live in the San Luis Obispo area, my favorite spot is Spyglass Point.
listen to theBrian Kealuanai story that was on NPR
